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Ultimate Guide to Mushroom Cultivation: From Spawn to Harvest, Beginners Can Also Achieve High Yields

Even though the spawn and environment were set up according to instructions, the mushrooms just wouldn't grow, either rotting as soon as they appeared or staying small all year—this was the real experience of Brother Li, an oyster mushroom grower from Shandong last year. In fact, according to 2024 data from the China Edible Fungi Association, the first-time success rate for novice mushroom growers in China is only 38%. The core issue is not that the technology is too difficult, but rather a lack of systematic scientific methods. Today, as a practitioner with 15 years of mushroom cultivation experience, I will share the most practical cultivation techniques with you without reservation, helping you avoid 90% of the pitfalls and easily grow high-quality mushrooms.

I. Choose the Right Spawn: The 'First Foundation Stone' of High Mushroom Yields

The quality of spawn directly determines mushroom yield and disease resistance. A common mistake beginners make is blindly purchasing low-priced spawn. Here are 3 core spawn selection techniques to help you avoid pitfalls accurately:

1. Select Varieties According to Growing Scenarios

Different mushroom varieties have vastly different growth habits. Beginners are advised to start with highly adaptable varieties: •Oyster mushrooms: Tolerant of low temperatures, strong resistance to contaminants, can be grown on balconies or in greenhouses, fruiting cycle is only 30-40 days, suitable for complete beginners; •Shiitake mushrooms: Require certain temperature differences to stimulate fruiting, suitable for large-scale greenhouse cultivation, high unit price, good storage, suitable for growers with some space; •Enoki mushrooms: Prefer cool, humid environments, commonly grown in factories, but can be tried at home using storage containers, tender texture, stable market demand.

2. Three Methods for Spawn Quality Identification

Don't rush to use the spawn after receiving it. First judge quality through these 3 points: ①Visual inspection: High-quality spawn has white, dense mycelium with no black or green mold spots; ②Smell: Has a natural mushroom aroma, no sour, putrid, or fishy odors; ③Texture: Gently squeeze the spawn block with your hand—it should be firm and elastic, not loose or sticky. If any of the above problems occur, stop using immediately to avoid contaminating the substrate.

II. Prepare the Substrate: Feed Mushrooms the Right Nutrition

Mushroom growth relies entirely on the substrate for nutrition. Many people overlook the key indicator of 'carbon-to-nitrogen ratio,' leading to slow mycelial growth. Here are two substrate formulations that are easiest for beginners to operate, with low cost and good results:

1. Universal Oyster Mushroom Substrate (100 jin)

40 jin cottonseed hulls + 30 jin corn cobs + 15 jin wheat bran + 5 jin cornmeal + 1 jin gypsum + 1 jin quicklime + 120-130 jin water. This formulation has a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of approximately 25:1, fully meeting the growth needs of oyster mushroom mycelium. According to tests, the biological conversion rate of oyster mushrooms grown with this formula can reach 80%-100%.

2. Key Steps in Substrate Treatment

The substrate must undergo sterilization treatment; otherwise, contaminants will compete with mushroom mycelium for nutrients. Beginners are recommended to use the 'atmospheric pressure sterilization method': Put the prepared substrate into plastic bags, tie the bag openings tightly, place them in a large pot, add water to cover the bags, bring to a boil and maintain for 2-3 hours, then turn off heat and let it cool before use. This method is simple and requires no professional equipment.

III. Environmental Control: Simulating Mushrooms' 'Native Home'

Mushrooms are 'environment-sensitive' crops. Temperature, humidity, light, and ventilation are the four essential elements, each with clear control standards:

1. Temperature: Differential Control at Different Stages

Temperature requirements differ between the mycelial growth stage and the fruiting stage. Taking oyster mushrooms as an example: ①Mycelial stage: Maintain temperature at 20-25°C, when mycelium grows fastest. Below 15°C growth slows, above 30°C it easily ages; ②Fruiting stage: Reduce temperature to 15-20°C. Temperature differences can stimulate primordia formation, which is one of the core reasons why many beginners have low yields.

2. Humidity: Divided into 'Air Humidity' and 'Substrate Humidity'

Many people only focus on spraying water but ignore precise humidity control: ①Substrate humidity: Maintain 60%-65% when bagging. The judgment method is to grab a handful of substrate—you should be able to squeeze out 1-2 drops of water between your fingers without dripping; ②Air humidity: Maintain 60%-70% during mycelial stage, increase to 85%-95% during fruiting stage. You can spray water on the ground and walls using a sprayer, avoiding direct spraying on primordia.

3. Light and Ventilation: Avoid Two Extremes

Mushroom mycelium growth does not require light—complete darkness is best. The fruiting stage requires scattered light (such as indirect sunlight on a balcony). Excessive light will cause cap discoloration and hardening. For ventilation, ventilate at least 2-3 times daily for 30 minutes each time to keep air fresh. Otherwise, excessive carbon dioxide concentration will cause thin, long stems and small caps, reducing commercial value.

IV. Pest and Disease Prevention: Prevention First, Targeted Treatment

The core of mushroom pest and disease prevention is 'prevention priority' because using pesticides during the fruiting stage can easily leave residues. According to 2023 research data from the Beijing Academy of Agricultural Sciences, 80% of mushroom pests and diseases can be avoided through advance control:

1. Common Disease Prevention

The most common is 'green mold disease,' often caused by incomplete substrate sterilization or excessive environmental humidity. Prevention methods: Ensure sufficient substrate sterilization time, maintain ventilation during fruiting stage. When a small amount of green mold is found, immediately cover the infected area with quicklime powder to isolate air and suppress spread. If the infection area is large, directly discard the contaminated bags to avoid transmission.

2. Common Pest Prevention

Mushroom flies and mushroom gnats are the main pests that will feed on mycelium and fruiting bodies. Prevention methods: Cover bag openings with insect-proof nets, place yellow sticky traps in the environment. If pests are found, biological pesticide matrine spray can be used—safe with no residue, meeting green cultivation standards.

V. Harvesting and Continuous Cropping: Maximizing Returns

Harvesting timing and methods directly affect yield and quality. Mastering the techniques can also achieve 'continuous cropping' of mushrooms:

1. Optimal Harvesting Time

Oyster mushrooms are best harvested when caps are 80-90% expanded with edges slightly curled inward; shiitake mushrooms when cap diameter reaches 4-6 cm, before gills fully expand; enoki mushrooms when stem length is 15-20 cm, before caps open. Harvesting too late leads to cap aging and poor texture, too early results in low yield.

2. Harvesting and Continuous Cropping Techniques

When harvesting, hold the base of the stem with your hand and gently twist to remove, avoiding pulling that damages mycelium. After harvesting the first flush, clean residual mushrooms and debris from the bag surface, spray water on the bag to maintain moisture, keep the environment suitable, and the second flush can grow in 10-15 days. Generally, 3-4 flushes can be harvested continuously.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Mushrooms produced many small primordia, but they withered one after another. What's the reason?

The core reason is insufficient air humidity or poor ventilation. The primordia stage is sensitive to humidity. If air humidity is below 80%, primordia will wither due to water loss. At the same time, if ventilation is insufficient, carbon dioxide accumulation will also cause primordia to die. Solution: Increase spraying frequency, maintain air humidity above 85%, extend daily ventilation time to 40 minutes.

2. If the substrate smells bad, can it still be used?

No. A smelly substrate indicates it has been contaminated by contaminants and produced harmful substances. Even if re-sterilized, the nutrition has been destroyed. Continued use will cause spawn not to germinate or produce very few mushrooms. It is recommended to directly replace with new substrate to avoid wasting time.

3. For home mushroom cultivation, can ordinary soil be used as substrate?

Not recommended. Ordinary soil contains many contaminants and insect eggs, and has single nutrition, unable to meet mushroom growth needs. Mushroom substrates require organic matter rich in cellulose and lignin (such as cottonseed hulls, corn cobs, etc.), not ordinary soil. Beginners must use specialized substrates.

4. How long after mycelium fully colonizes the substrate can mushrooms appear?

Different varieties have different times. Fast-growing varieties like oyster mushrooms and enoki mushrooms can fruit 10-15 days after full colonization; varieties like shiitake and wood ear mushrooms require 20-30 days and need 'temperature difference stimulation' (such as warming during day and cooling 5-8°C at night) to promote primordia formation. Patient waiting and proper environmental control are key.

Summary and Call to Action

Actually, mushroom cultivation is not as difficult as imagined. From choosing the right spawn, preparing the substrate, to controlling temperature and humidity, as long as you master these core aspects, beginners can also achieve high yields. Remember, mushrooms are 'living crops.' During cultivation, observe more, record more, and adjust management methods according to actual conditions. You will gradually find your own cultivation techniques.

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